* General rule for data mobile in all Dodecanese: ensure you are not connected to Turkcell or any other Turkish operator while on international roaming. The proximity to Turkey causes often your mobile network to connect to the Turkish operator instead of the Greek one. As Turkey is not in the EU, the costs for using its mobile data with an EU sim card are extremely high, so make sure your roaming is off while in the Dodecanese with a Greek (or European) sim card.
Tilos is an island of Dodecanese close to Nisyros, and being one of the lesser known islands it was a pleasant surprise for us. We loved the combination of the traditional laid back village with its modernity. Tilos is the first completely green and sustainable Greek island, has an efficient public transportation, and it’s the first place In Greece where homosexual marriage was celebrated. It is also the only Greek island where free camping is not only tolerated, but also encouraged.
How to get there
Tilos is conveniently located between Nisyros and Rhodes and connected by Blue Star ferries a couple times a week.
You can either sleep at Livadia, the port, that offers many accommodations (we stayed at Sevas Studios, with reliable wifi, an amazing terrace with seaview, breakfast included at a super affordable price) or at Megalo Chorio, a lovely village that has fewer options to eat/sleep and no direct beach though. You can sleep at Eristos beach in its hotel or if you don’t have to work, in a tent 🙂
How to move around
You can rent a scooter for 15 euro/day or rely on the efficient public transportation. The bus is quite frequent and connects you from Livadia, to Megalo Chorio and Eristos.
Internet in Tilos
In Livadia, the internet connection (both our wifi and the mobile connection with Cosmote) was great. We were able to work our 40 hours a week with lots of meetings without any hiccups. On the other side, in Megalo Chorio, we found our internet connection a bit more intermittent.
What to see
Beaches
Livadia, the beach of port, was amazing. Clear and calm waters, some beach bars and a nice landscape. Definitely the best beach of the island.
Plaka, reachable only by scooter, was nice to see but the sea was not the best. This area is worth visiting because it hosts some pagonia. We looked for them but we couldn’t find them. Check out next to the little church on the top of the hill, someone told us they should be there 🙂
Eristos, is a vast beach of sand on a bay where many people go for free camping. There are even toilets and showers for free and a small bar. It’s a relaxing place where you feel you could stay for weeks.
Other beaches of the island are reachable either by boat (but in July 2022 we have not seen any service offering that) or by scooter plus a bit of a hike. Closer to Livadia Lethra and Kokkini beach, while in the north you have Skafi beach and in the south Tholos beach.
Villages
Mikro Chorio is an old village not too far from Livadia, that was abandoned after an eartquake where everyone moved to Megalo Chorio and Livadia. The old houses, the incredible views and the dozens of goats roaming around make the place really impressive, so be sure not to miss it.
Megalo Chorio is the second main village after Livadia and it is also worth visiting, especially if you combine it with a hike up to its Kastro.
Museum
As in Tilos some fossils of dwarf elephants were discovered, there is a fascinating Elephant museum for you to find more about it.
Where to eat
We had a good dinner at Gorgona restaurant in Livadia and recommend you check the Kafeneio at Megalo Chorio as well (sometime they have live music as well). Delfini restaurant, in Agios Antonios (up north) was also very good, especially the lamb.
Last thoughts on Tilos
Tilos was an absolute discovery for us as we loved its laid back environment, the friendly people and the way it prides itself of its many environmental advancements. Considerably cheaper than other islands and with a pretty decent internet connection we would definitely recommend it as a destination for digital nomads.
