* General rule for data mobile in all Dodecanese: ensure you are not connected to Turkcell or any other Turkish operator while on international roaming. The proximity to Turkey causes often your mobile network to connect to the Turkish operator instead of the Greek one. As Turkey is not in the EU, the costs for using its mobile data with an EU sim card are extremely high, so make sure your roaming is off while in the Dodecanese with a Greek (or European) sim card.
Nisyros is an island of Dodecanese, a couple of hours away from Rhodes to which is connected bi-weekly in summer. Being a volcanic island, it has completely different landscapes than any of the other islands we have seen, even neighboring islands like Tilos. The internet was a bit of a challenge while here, but we still could get some work done by having an external router with us.
How to get there
You can get to Nisyros with Blue Star Patmos and Blue Star Chios ferries, depending if you are coming from Pireus port or from Rhodes. Both ferries come at night (from 2 to 4.30). There are also some other routes but they are usually available to book just shortly in advance.
How to move around
The main village of the island today is the port, Mandraki, with its narrow little streets and gorgeous views of the cliffs. Other than Mandraki, Emporio, in the middle of the island (it was the old capital) is beautiful to see and offers a range of accommodations. Paloi, on the northern coast, is a sleepy fishing village that has some good tavernas. Nikia, in the south of the island, has some houses, a lovely square with some cafes and is also worth visiting.
To see the different villages you can rent a scooter for 15 euros a day.
Internet in Nisyros
Internet connection is kinda poor on the entire island. Vodafone does not work at all in Mandraki, with the signal completely missing, while Cosmote works quite okay. In our accommodation in Mandraki, the wifi was also nonexistent. We managed to work decently (in some cases both in video calls at the same time) with our small portable router with Cosmote and unlimited data. (if you want more info just ask us) We didnt stay there but Hotel mpla mpla would probably be a great option due to the proximiry to the main antena of the island
We also visited Loutra and its lovely hotel and the signal was okay there (they also have good wifi). In Emporio even Cosmote wasn’t reliable, so we don’t recommend staying there.
What to see
Beaches
In Nisyros you will not find your typical Greek beach with blue waters. The island has a volcano and the sand is usually black. Also, in Mandraki the sea was always so rough you were not able to swim in it.
Loutra has calmer waters and it’s good for swimming, while Pachia Ammos is the biggest beach on the island and it’s also a free camping spot. It needs a bit of walk (on the cliffs, so watch out if you are scared of heights!) but it will reward you with a beautiful landscape and the most relaxing vibes. Make sure you bring a sun umbrella as there is no shadow at all.
Even if it does not have a beach, Aulaki, an old port now abandoned, is probably your best option to swim in Nisyros. Being in a small bay, it has clean and calm waters and it’s beautiful to see. We spent an entire day there relaxing.
Volcano
Nisyros has a sleeping (but active) volcano so visiting it is a must. Tickets are 4 euro and allow you to see both the small crater and the big one. You can also choose to hike all the way through it and even extend your hike until Nikia.
For information on your hikes, to rent a scooter or for any guided tours we recommend contacting Haris. He is super passionate about the island and can help you with everything you need.
Gyali
For a day trip, you can take a ferry to the neighboring island of Gyali. The boat leaves from Mandraki and comfortably leaves you in Gyali little bay where you can chill at its calm waters.
What to eat
Nisyros absolutely amazed us with its food. While we really liked the all little tavernas in Mandraki’s central square of Eilikiomeni (Irini, Panorama, and the kafeneio as well), we suggest to go to Emporeio and eat at Apyria. The food here was one of the best we had EVER. Try the garlic dip with almond (skordalia), the lamb (katsiki), the cheese-filled zucchini flowers (kolokitanthous) & thank us later 🙂 A nice option is also the bar in front of it (to balconi), we had breakfast there with the best view of the volcano.
Last thoughts on Nisyros
If you are going to see only one Greek island in your life, do not go to Nisyros as it’s not the most representative of Greece. But, if you want to see some surreal landscapes while having a mix of hikes, amazing food and chilled vibes you should definitely check it out!
